Kaohsiung - Taiwan’s Second City

Having grown up in the northern part of the island, I am embarrassed to admit that southern Taiwan seemed almost foreign to me. Even though it was only a five-hour drive to the southernmost tip of the island from my hometown, I had never been to “the south” before immigrating to the United States at the age of sixteen. Those of us from northern Taiwan have stereotypes of the south: a hot climate, friendliness, and less development. When I was a kid, my dad always found an excuse not to venture south of Taichung, blaming it on traffic or the heat waves. As a result, I have always had a fascination with southern Taiwan and feel guilty that I am a stranger in my own country.

Kaohsiung has become the new hip city of Taiwan in recent years.

By happenstance, our flight back to New York flew out of Kaohsiung. I was more than happy to have an excuse to spend a few days in the city. Although the third-largest city by population, Kaohsiung (高雄) has historically been regarded as Taiwan’s “second city” and is considered the counterweight to the capital, Taipei. Kaohsiung takes pride in its southern identity. From the prevalence of the Taiwanese Hokkien dialect to its political leanings, this proud city is eager to declare itself the epicenter of Taiwanese identity and sovereignty.

Taipei may well be the most exciting and worthwhile city in Taiwan, but Kaohsiung has gained much international prominence in recent years. Not only is it a popular stop for international cruises, but I am genuinely delighted (and shocked) by the news that even United Airlines would start flying to Kaohsiung. This was my second time visiting Kaohsiung, and I was pleasantly surprised by the number of international visitors we came across. In fact, the New York Times named Kaohsiung as one of the top fifty places to visit in 2021.

Zuoying District

Originally a small fishing village, today’s Kaohsiung first came into prominence after the Dutch colonists were expelled from Taiwan by the forces of Koxinga. Not long after, China’s Qing Empire established a garrison town south of the capital, Tainan. This original settlement is Zuoying (左營), which translates to “Left Camp.” Even though much of the old city has been demolished, a surprisingly large portion of the old fortifications survived, which is an anomaly in Taiwan. The quick succession of regime changes, unfortunately, means historical preservation was often an afterthought until very recently.

The old city is ground zero for the Lin Shuang-wen rebellion (林爽文事件) in 1787. This uprising was the first of three major instances of civil unrest against the Qing Empire of China. Although it was eventually pacified, the uprising highlighted the plight of life in Taiwan. The old city was damaged by the insurgents and rebuilt with donations from the terrified residents. It was the most state-of-the-art fortification in Taiwan, but rumors began circulating that the place was cursed after the governor died of a mysterious disease due to bad feng shui. The old city eventually reverted to being a military garrison by the Japanese colonial era.

Dragon and Tiger Pagodas are the popular emblems of Kaohsiung.

Just a quick walk from the old fortification is Lotus Pond (蓮池潭). This 105-acre semi-artificial lake got its name from the lotus planted near the city’s massive Confucius Temple. The lake is famous for its eclectic collection of outlandish temples along its western shore. As a Taiwanese, I admit I am not the biggest fan of religious architecture. On average, they are overtly colorful and ostentatious. Those on the Lotus Pond are a cut above your typical temples in terms of their gaudiness. The main reason I dislike them is that they are constructed of reinforced concrete, which inadvertently turned them into post-modern architecture. Ironically, some even refer to it as an “architectural marvel” of southern Taiwan. It was amusing to see how these structures somehow became some of the most popular emblems of Kaohsiung.

The most famous temple is the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas (龍虎塔). In 1974, the locals received a divine directive from the God of Medicine to construct two pagodas to prevent an impending natural disaster. The construction took two years, and the city was spared the destruction from Typhoon Thelma a year later. The entrance to the twin pagodas is decorated with a massive statue of a dragon and tiger. But first, you have to walk a set of zig-zag bridges, which are purposefully meandering as a metaphor for the unpredictable passage of life.

Visitors enter the mouth of the beast and are immediately greeted by the schemes of the underworld. While it could be terrifying to young children, I was more nauseated by the god awful colors and fluorescent lighting. They were so hideous that they became a tourist attraction in their own right. The seven-tier pagodas represent seven levels of enlightenment in Buddhism. These towers may seem ornate on the outside, but the upper tiers are pretty plain. I could tell that most visitors were disappointed when they reached the top. There was no reason to climb the second tower.

The next temple is the Spring and Autumn Pavilions (春秋閣), another temple with a giant dragon. The pavilion on the left is dedicated to one of Confucius’ most noted writings. The dragon here is topped by a statue of Guanyin, the goddess of mercy. According to popular legends, she appeared to the parishioners to construct a temple here. It is perhaps the weirdest-looking architectural ensemble around. Sadly, the complex was closed for renovation, but the contrast between the elaborately ornate dragon and the field of rubble made it all the more interesting. Considering how hot it was in the middle of the day, I was okay with skipping this one.

Our last stop on the lake is Zuoying Yuandi Temple (左營元帝廟). Initially constructed in 1666, the temple is dedicated to Xuanwu, who is perhaps the highest-ranking deity in Taoist religion. He is known to wield enormous powers and is one of the guardians of the Chinese constellations. He is commonly depicted riding a tortoise and wielding a sword. While the main temple is located on the shore, the most notable feature is a massive statue of Xuanwu constructed on the water. I have even read that this is the largest statue built over the water in this corner of Asia. It may not be my aesthetics, but I admit it is somewhat photogenic.

Kaohsiung, The Modern Metropolis

Although most foreign tourists seem to enjoy Lotus Pond, these temples are too tacky in my book. For me, I was more excited to explore the modernity of Kaohsiung. Back when I was a kid, Kaohsiung had a sordid reputation among the Taiwanese. While Taipei is the political and cultural center of the country, southern Taiwan is the center of industries. Kaohsiung, in particular, is the center of Taiwan's petrochemical industry. Believe it or not, I had always associated the city with smoke stacks and toxic fumes. It was honestly never a place most were eager to visit.

Following the turn of the millennium, Kaohsiung underwent a gradual transformation through infrastructure investment. Politically speaking, the city is closely aligned with the independence-leaning Democratic Progressive Party (DPP). Since the party has held the presidency for much of the time since the 200s, the city enjoyed generous funding from the national government to build an excellent public transit system. Although the system’s reach is still a fraction of Taipei’s, Kaohsiung Metro strives to make a statement. The newest addition is the sleek, circular light rail line; most stations have unique architectural flair.

However, the most notable statement in the entire metro station is the underground Formosa Boulevard Station (美麗島站). At the intersection of two main subway lines, this station is an architectural showcase with impressive above-ground pavilions and a massive underground glass dome. Known as the “Dome of Light,” the installation is 90 feet in diameter and comprises 4,500 glass panels, making it allegedly the world’s largest glass art installation. It is commonly included on the list of the world’s most beautiful subway stations.

Formosa Boulevard Station is often included as one of the most beautiful subway stations in the world.

Designed by the Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata, the glass dome illustrates the stories of destruction and rebirth. The section of particular interest illustrates the history of political transformation from political dictatorship to full democracy in Taiwan. The namesake for this station is the 1979 Formosa Incident, a pivotal moment in modern Taiwan’s recent history. It was one of the largest non-violent demonstrations against the one-party rule of the Chinese Nationalist Party. The brutal suppression and the legal prosecution of the dissidents played a big part in the pressure campaign from abroad and on the island for political democratization.

The grand canopy of the brand new Kaohsiung Main Station.

The newest addition to the city’s architectural landscape is the new Kaohsiung Main Station. Inaugurated only a few months ago, the station is a crown jewel of the decade-long project to move the city’s ground-level tracks underground. The alien-looking structure was conceived by the Dutch architectural firm Mecanoo, aiming to stitch together two sides of the tracks. The massive canopy not only shields travelers from the intense heat of Kaohsiung but also creates beautiful observation platforms and bike paths across the city.

One of my favorite features of this brand-new station is ironically the colonial-era station that has been preserved and relocated to the new location. The Imperial Crown Style structure is striking despite its diminutive size; it serves as a tribute to the past and will eventually become the exhibition space telling the stories of Kaohsiung's modern transformation. The station is well-loved by the locals but seems underutilized. By number, it is only the tenth busiest station in the country. Thankfully, the government has just announced that the high-speed train line will be extended here, which will give the city center a much-needed boost.

Kaohsiung’s 85 Sky Tower is the work of the same architect behind Taipei 101. The two city’s rivalry is real.

The best witness to the investment and recent transformation of Kaohsiung is the waterfront. The city’s port is not only Taiwan’s largest but was once one of the top five busiest deepwater ports in the world. For much of the city’s history, the waterfront was dominated by unsightly container cranes and oil terminals. Back then, we often joked that visitors could get a whiff of heavy petroleum the moment they stepped off the train at the city. After a decade of clean-up, the waterfront has been transformed into a lovely pedestrian zone full of galleries, co-working spaces, and cafes. The change of scenery is stunning.

A large section of Port of Kaohsiung has been transformed into a lovely leisure zone.

Anchoring this amazing transformation are a couple of marquee projects. The most head-turning among them is Kaohsiung Music Center. The hexagonal motifs are carried out throughout the entire project, and the building certainly stands out in the city’s skyline. As an architect, I could already see what a daunting task it is to maintain this unorthodox structure in Taiwan’s subtropical climate. The abundance of louvers and screens seems like such a nightmare. However, the outlandish silhouette has since become an instant icon on Kaohsiung’s skyline. The nightly illumination program appears to be a hit with locals and visitors alike.

Kaohsiung Music Center seeks to replicate the Bilboa Effect.

The massive performing arts complex is the textbook definition of weird architecture. For years, I have been railing against the passiveness of out-of-place buildings popping up across Asia, particularly in China. Many cities are hopeful of replicating the Bilbao Effect, where the success of the Guggenheim Museum had a transformative effect on Bilbao, Spain. The Bilbao Effect appears to grant cities around the world the license to commission some of the most daring architecture. Avant-garde architects found it a convenient excuse to make their outlandish dream a reality. It is almost inevitable that post-industrial cities like Kaohsiung would become the playgrounds for architects.

Understandably, Kaohsiung Port Terminal is nicked as “the whale” by the locals.

A new addition to the waterfront is the futuristic Kaohsiung Port Terminal, designed by the New York-based duo Reiser+Umemoto, who were my professors in graduate school. Nicknamed “the whale” by the locals, this slick structure is the terminal building for international cruise lines. Although not a major port of call like Hong Kong or Yokohama, Kaohsiung has gradually elbowed its way into more and more cruise itineraries. Frankly, I was pleasantly surprised by how many Westerners there were during our visit. That was entirely inconceivable when I was a kid.

The Artistic Kaohsiung

Obviously, Kaohsiung’s recent renaissance goes beyond infrastructure improvement. One effective agent of change is to embrace the new generation of artists. With railway tracks relocated underground, the newly created green spaces became a wonderful canvas for local artists. Similarly, the new light rail lines also created numerous opportunities. I was thoroughly impressed by the artistry and scale of these murals. Since most Taiwanese cities don’t often put much effort into their appearance, Kaohsiung stands out by embracing public art without any fear.

The large-scale murals near Pier-2 Art Center.

One of the most popular spots for tourists is Pier-2 Art Center (駁二藝術特區). Originating at Pier 2 of the port of Kaohsiung, the art center has expanded to encompass Piers 1 through 10. It is home to a diverse range of event spaces, cafes, boutiques, and museums. Its rotating pop-up stores and exhibits make this a popular outing for both locals and foreign visitors. The convenience of the modern light rail makes it the most popular tourist hotspot in the city. While we couldn’t say much about the quality of shopping here, the abundance of public art outdoors was superb. This is undoubtedly popular with the Instagram generation. My personal favorite is the mosaics of a peeing boy. I happen to think Kaohsiung’s version of Manneken Pis is better than Brussels’ original.

At the western edge of the art center is an abandoned rail yard, home to the Hamasen Museum of Taiwan Railway (哈瑪星台灣鐵道館). Although it may be of particular interest to railway enthusiasts and young children, this small museum also gives visitors a glimpse into Taiwanese urbanism through its collection of miniature models. It allegedly has Asia’s largest H0 scale railway model. On display in the rail yard is a collection of historical locomotives and carriages. For those of us who grew up in Taiwan, these railcars offer great nostalgia. The latest addition is Horlin Baking, a boutique cafe housed within decommissioned train cars.

The outdoor amphitheater of the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts.

For serious art lovers, a visit to the city should include an afternoon at the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts (KMFA). The museum’s architecture is beyond underwhelming, and its massive atrium was curiously empty during our visit. So we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of its collection. As far as I could tell, the exhibits here focus only on Taiwanese artists or works of foreign artists with a Taiwanese perspective. While Taipei’s National Palace Museum may still have the most artistically significant collection, the collection here has nothing to do with the history of Taiwan. I would personally recommend KMFA more to first-time visitors to Taiwan instead. The outdoor sculpture collections outside are just cherries on top.

Heeding the advice of the staff at the fine art museum, we headed to the ALIEN Art Centre (金馬賓館當代美術館). This private museum is housed within the old guesthouse for veterans’ families. It is arguably the most prestigious venue in southern Taiwan for contemporary art. But like the majority of contemporary art, it is not for everyone, including us. I found myself drawn more to the museum’s architectural heritage, rather than the exhibits. Perhaps we are just not sophisticated enough for this place.

The Everyday Kaohsiung

While I wrote so much about many of Kaohsiung’s new and old landmarks, the city’s charm lies in the tranquility of its neighborhoods. Compared to other Taiwanese cities, Kaohsiung feels grand and orderly. Despite a lower rate of public transportation, the city’s streets felt calm and manicured. At the end of our visit, I actually told Brian I might prefer living here more than Taipei or my hometown, Hsinchu. That statement would be inconceivable twenty years ago. Today’s Kaohsiung is a favorite of expats. Brian jokingly looked up job postings at the Kaohsiung American School in Zuoying.

One of the most popular spots in the city is Liuhe Night Market (六合夜市). This famous night market is closed off to vehicles nightly and stretches several city blocks. For those who have visited Taipei’s famous Raohe Night Market, Liuhe is far more manageable and enjoyable. I may not be a night market connoisseur, but the locals certainly regard Liuhe to be overly touristy and overpriced. There is certainly a truth to this reputation, but there is a good reason why visitors prefer Liuhe over the half dozen others that market in the city. It is conveniently just a block from Formosa Boulevard Station, and the vendors here are accustomed to foreigners. It also means the food selections here are representative of the greatest hits for visitors. My personal favorite is a Taiwanese ice cream burrito, filled with shaved peanut brittle and cilantro. This curious combination is unexpectedly delicious!

Our time in Kaohsiung was too short to do this city justice. Some notable points of interest we did not get to visit include the seaside Cijing District and Weiwuying (衛武營). A couple of locals told me that one unexpected favorite among foreigners is Fo Guang Shan Monastery (佛光山), a massive complex belonging to Taiwan’s largest Buddhist organization. The temple allegedly has one of Buddha’s tooth relics. Their enormous Buddha statue and its eight massive pagodas are surely head-turning.

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Kaohsiung - Taiwan’s Second City

Zuoying District

Kaohsiung, The Modern Metropolis

The Artistic Kaohsiung

The Everyday Kaohsiung

The Slower Pace of Yilan